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People are talking about licorice root extract for a reason: it’s a great natural anti-inflammatory for calming down angry skin. This extract, from the Glycyrrhiza glabra plant, can seriously take the edge off post-treatment redness and discomfort. But how do you actually use this botanical to get the best results?

Key Takeaways

  • Get a quality licorice root extract. Look for one with at least 20% glycyrrhizin content if you want it to actually work against inflammation.
  • Don’t skip the patch test. Put a little on a hidden spot of skin and wait 24 hours to see how your skin reacts before you use it everywhere.
  • To make a post-wax soothing serum, just mix 2-3 drops of the extract with a carrier oil like jojoba or argan.
  • Apply your new serum to the waxed area twice a day for the first 72 hours. This is the best way to head off redness and irritation.
  • Avoid layering licorice root extract with strong acids like AHAs or BHAs in the same go, you could end up with more irritation, not less.

1. Selecting the Right Licorice Root Extract Formulation

The results you get from licorice root extract come down to the quality of the product you buy. The concentration of its active compounds, especially glycyrrhizin, is what gives it its anti-inflammatory punch. When you’re shopping, hunt for products that state the glycyrrhizin percentage and aim for 20% or higher. I’ve found that extracts standardized to that level, from suppliers like Mountain Rose Herbs or Bulk Apothecary, give you a visible reduction in skin reactivity.

The extraction method matters, too. CO2 extraction typically produces a cleaner, stronger product than alcohol-based tinctures, but a good tincture from a trusted source can still do the job. You also have to think about the form. Liquid extracts are much easier to work with for DIY projects than powders, which you’d have to measure perfectly and emulsify. A liquid lets you just add a few drops to a carrier oil or your favorite fragrance-free lotion. Always scan the ingredient list for fillers or alcohol that could work against the calming effect you’re trying to achieve.

Pro Tip: Verify Supplier Credentials

Before you buy, go to the supplier’s website and look for a certificate of analysis (COA) for their licorice root extract. This document is your proof of the product’s purity and the concentration of its active ingredients, including that all-important glycyrrhizin. Any supplier who is transparent will have this available. For anyone who’s serious about their skincare formulations, this isn’t an optional step.

2. Preparing Your Anti-Inflammatory Soothing Serum

Making your own soothing serum is simple, and you get complete control over what goes on your skin. You just need a good carrier oil and the extract you picked out. When it comes to carrier oils, jojoba oil and argan oil are fantastic because they’re non-comedogenic and good for the skin. Jojoba is a personal favorite because its structure is so similar to our skin’s own oil, which means it absorbs beautifully for most people.

Let’s say you’re making a 10ml batch, which should last you a couple of weeks. Mix about 9.5ml of your carrier oil with 0.5ml of the licorice root extract (that’s roughly 10-12 drops). This gives you about a 5% concentration, a solid starting point for post-waxing care. You can tweak it a little depending on your skin’s sensitivity, but I’d never go over 10% on a first try. Use a small, clean dropper bottle for mixing, and make sure your tools are sterile to keep bacteria out of your serum.

Common Mistake: Over-Concentration

It’s tempting to think a stronger mix is better, but you can actually cause more irritation that way. Using a concentration of licorice root extract above 10% can backfire, especially if you have sensitive skin. Stick to the 5% to 7% range. If you aren’t seeing the soothing effects you want, the problem is more likely the quality of your extract or how consistently you’re applying it, not that the concentration is too low.

3. Performing a Patch Test for Skin Compatibility

I know it’s a pain, but you have to do a patch test before slathering any new product on a large patch of freshly waxed skin. Pick a spot that’s out of the way, like behind your ear, on your inner arm, or a small patch on your inner thigh. These spots are good indicators of how more sensitive areas will react.

Dab a small amount of the serum you made onto the test spot. I’d cover it with a small bandage so it doesn’t rub off. Now, you wait 24 hours. Keep an eye out for any sign of a reaction, we’re talking redness, itching, bumps, or any other kind of discomfort. If anything pops up, wash the area with a gentle soap and water, and that’s your sign not to use the serum. Even if you’ve used other products with licorice root, your specific DIY mix could be different, so don’t skip this.

This one simple step can save you from a world of hurt. I’ve seen clients ignore this advice and end up with an angry rash on a very visible area. A little patience now prevents a lot of regret later.

Pro Tip: Document Your Test

Snap a quick photo of the patch test area on your phone before you apply the serum and another one 24 hours later. A visual record is the only way to be objective about subtle changes that might signal a mild reaction. It’s easy to forget exactly what it looked like a day ago. Jot down the date and time, too.

4. Integrating into Your Post-Waxing Routine

Okay, your patch test was clear. Here’s how to use the serum in your post-waxing routine. The idea is to get it on your skin soon after waxing to calm inflammation before it really gets going. After the wax, wash the area gently with a mild, fragrance-free cleanser and pat it dry. Right after a wax is not the time for hot water or aggressive scrubbing, which will only make things worse.

Put 2-3 drops of your licorice root serum on your fingertips and massage it into the waxed skin with light, circular motions until it’s absorbed. Be gentle. For the best outcome, do this twice a day (morning and night) for the first 72 hours after your wax. That’s the window when inflammation is at its peak, so consistent application really helps soothe the skin and speed up recovery. After those first three days, you can drop down to once a day for another 4-5 days to keep the skin happy and help prevent ingrown hairs. Calm, healthy skin is your best defense against them.

If a client has extremely sensitive skin and is prone to major redness, I sometimes suggest they start applying the serum 24 hours *before* their wax. This can prime the skin so it’s less reactive, but you should only do this if you’ve already done a successful patch test. For most people, just applying it after is enough.

Common Mistake: Applying to Broken Skin

Never put this serum, or any serum for that matter, on skin that’s broken, cut, or looks raw from the wax. Licorice root is anti-inflammatory, but it’s not meant for open wounds. You risk introducing bacteria and slowing down healing. Wait until the skin has had a few hours to recover and form a barrier before you apply anything. If you get a nick during waxing, clean it with an antiseptic first.

5. Monitoring Results and Adjusting Usage

After you start using the serum consistently, pay attention to how your skin is responding. You’re looking for less redness, less tenderness, and just an overall calmer appearance. It helps to keep a few notes on your phone to track this. For example, if your post-wax redness normally lasts 48 hours, does the serum cut that down to 24? This helps you see if it’s actually working.

If your skin is still really reactive, you could try applying it three times a day for the first 48 hours, or maybe bump up the concentration slightly (but don’t go over 10% without talking to a professional). On the flip side, if you notice any low-grade sensitivity, just dial back the frequency or the concentration. Everyone’s skin is different, so what works for one person might need a little tweaking for you.

And there’s real science here. The effectiveness of glycyrrhizin for inflammation is supported by research. For instance, a 2013 study in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology noted its potential for treating different skin conditions because of its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects. This is why it’s such a smart addition to your post-waxing kit.

Pro Tip: Combine with Cool Compresses

For some immediate relief from that hot, stinging feeling right after a wax, try pairing the serum with a cool compress. After you’ve applied the serum, just lay a clean, cool (not freezing) cloth over the area for 5-10 minutes. The combination feels amazing and can really help the skin calm down and absorb the serum.

Adding licorice root extract to your post-waxing care is a smart, natural way to handle inflammation and make your skin more comfortable. If you choose a good extract, mix it correctly, and use it consistently, you’ll see a real difference in how your skin recovers.

Can I use licorice root extract on all body parts after waxing?

Yes, you can use it anywhere you wax, as long as a patch test comes back clear. That includes sensitive spots like the bikini line and face. Just be sure to avoid any areas where the skin is broken or raw.

How long does it take to see results from using licorice root extract after waxing?

Most people notice less redness and feel more comfortable within 24 to 48 hours if they’re applying it consistently. The longer-term perks, like helping prevent ingrowns, tend to become obvious after about a week of use.

Are there any ingredients I should avoid mixing with licorice root extract?

Don’t apply it at the exact same time as strong exfoliants like Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs). Layering them can lead to irritation. You can still use them, but apply them at different times of day or on alternate days.

Can licorice root extract help with ingrown hairs?

It can help indirectly. By keeping inflammation down, it reduces the swelling around hair follicles that can trap hairs and cause ingrowns. Basically, calmer and healthier skin is less likely to have that problem, so consistent use helps keep things smooth.

Where can I purchase high-quality licorice root extract?

Look for reputable botanical suppliers who can provide a certificate of analysis (COA) to prove the product’s quality and the concentration of its active compounds like glycyrrhizin. Online stores such as Mountain Rose Herbs or Bulk Apothecary are usually reliable places to check.